Sailing Vessel Chessie

June 16 - Port Hardy, BC to Craig, Alaska

Family & Friends - Having made a rather uneventful (for this time of year) passage up the Discovery Passage and Johnstone Strait, we intended to spend a weekend in Port Hardy. Unfortunately, we had a mechanical issue which kept us there a few days beyond our original schedule. (When cruising: have no schedule and stick to it...) That said, while mechanical issues are unfortunate, we were fortunate to have great support in Port Hardy from BlackCat Mechanical (the Caterpillar dealer) and also to have a wonderful time with some great folks we met who live in Port Hardy. It was hard to tear ourselves away.

We had a good crossing of the Queen Charlotte Sound and spent a night off the Fitz Hugh Sound at the end of the Kwakune Channel in Pruth Bay. Pruth Bay (North 51 39.28, West 128 07.34) has an extremely nice fishing resort which opens during the "season" (last week in June-first week in September) and the resort has public access across a half mile stretch to one of the nicest sandy beaches in Canada which faces west into the Queen Charlotte Sound.

Back into Fitz Hugh working North, we stopped in Codville Lagoon (North 52 03.64, West 127 50.31) - one of our favorites - for our first prawn harvesting of the year. Not an enormous haul but tasty. Next was a fuel stop in Shearwater, down the Seaforth Channel and then an overnight in Bottleneck Inlet (North 52 42.61, West 128 24.17) which is a very small, but safe channel into an extremely well protected, tranquil and picturesque anchorage with room for 3-4 boats. That evening one of the two "Watchman" from the Kitasoo Band (First Nation) from Klemtu came to check the inlet. The tribe "watchman" are both ceremonial and functioning positions, elected by the band to ensure that tribal lands are protected and respected. A number of these First Nation anchorages contain burial sites that while extremely old, represent a priority to today's tribes in protection and maintaining their culture. He was very friendly, chatty and informative. The number one information exchange is fishing and other wildlife.

The next morning as we were watching the seals foraging around the boat Karen noted two large black "rocks" on a grassy beach right off the port bow were moving. Black Bear mom and cub (probably a yearling by the size) had come down to get their fiber. We have come to identify certain beaches as "bear beaches" because that's where they hang out at low tide and especially if there's lots of tender young grass around.

We headed up the Princess Royal Channel on the eastern side of Princess Royal Island to Bishop Bay (North 53 28.4, West 128 50.41) . Bishop Bay is just on the northeast corner of Gribbell Island. This vicinity was just recently in the world news when a BC Ferry with over a hundred passengers onboard struck a rock in the middle of the night and sank in 600 feet. The First Nation village of Hartley Bay (North 53 25.47, West 129 14.99), which is on the southwest corner of Gribbell Island, was key to the safe rescue of the passengers. Only two people lost their lives.

We pulled into Bishop Bay and saw the small float that services the wooden walkway to the hot springs. The float was completely occupied with commercial fishing boats and a party was in full swing. They wouldn't hear of us anchoring and shoehorned us onto the float. We quickly joined the party. We had a great evening with three brothers and a number of their friends that spend time at the hot springs every year.

We were underway the next morning stopping at Lowe Inlet (Verny Falls)(North 53 33.5, West 129 34.33) and Kumealon Inlet (North 53 51.87, West 129 58.84) along the Grenville channel before coming into Prince Rupert. "PR" feels a bit like coming home. The Prince Rupert Rowing and Yacht Club Staff, Jolinda, Daughter Stephanie and a few young men, are the most gracious hosts and make this provisioning stop special. They have a well deserved reputation for hospitality and accommodating their guests.

From Prince Rupert we had an extremely benign crossing of the Dixon Entrance and got into Ketchikan the same day. We moored in Bar Harbor, the commercial fishing marina at the west end of town, and did some of those cruiser catch-up chores...laundry, mail pick up, etc.

After two days in Ketchikan, we were on the way shortly to South Kaigani Harbor (North 54 45.51, West 132 45.52) on Dall Island just at the North side (West end) of Dixon entrance. We had a great sail down the Nichols Passage from the Tongass Narrows and around Cape Chacon. We headed for the Far West fish camp. Our "slip mate" while we spent part of the winter in Port Angeles was Tony who is the "exec" of this resort and invited us to stop by on our way North. We had a fabulous day fishing. Karen caught a 28 pound halibut and Richard sweet talked a 30 pound King salmon into the boat. We had two great evenings with guests and crew of Northern Legacy while enjoying "San Diego" like weather and perhaps the greatest whale dance show short of Sea World.

Again, having great and favorable sailing winds, we sailed up the Kaigani Straits (including the narrows) and the Tlevak Strait. We've had a good bit of sailing lately. This is a good thing as the latitude goes up so does the price of diesel (you don't want to know)...and we are a sailboat...but this area demands compromises and one that is necessary to make is the amount of trawlering required. We stopped in Dunlap Inlet (North 55 05.33, West 133 48.9) and Port Refugio (North 55 16.84, West 133 19.51) enroute Craig. Port Refugio is not really a "port" at all but a relatively secure, all winds anchorage. This is a good thing as it was blowing 35 "outside" and we've seen 20-25 in this secure spot. We've gotten used to it but it is amazing how quickly the weather can change up here and how drastic those changes can be.

We'll be in Craig tomorrow and there will be new pictures on the site in the next week or so. Again - a very special thanks to our webmaster, Dee.

All the very best - Richard & Karen

Greetings from Port Angeles, Washington. (5/13/06)

Family & Friends - Our first month of cruising this year has had many of the elements of what mariners refer to as "shakedown" cruises.
Yes, and not unexpectedly a few things have shaken but we are well underway and making good progress. By example, this morning I got to rebuild the deck control for the anchor windlass with bits & pieces from Karen's sewing kit.

To catch you up... We spent most of the winter in Sidney, British Columbia. Then we did a haul (Karen painted the bottom a lovely red - she also painted several pairs of coveralls and her hat) and other major boat stuff in March in Port Angeles,Washington coming back to Sidney, BC, where we finished up the winter on board Chessie into late April. Sidney's a great Port of Entry and we enjoyed our winter there - very friendly folks, used to cruisers and fortunately, lots of bookstores. We did get to see very much first hand just how severe the Canadian winter can be. One night it got so cold (and not a little windy, 50 + knots ) that Chessie had enough and tried to throw herself onto the pier. There we were in the freezing rain at 4 AM trying to rescue her and get extra fenders stuffed in between the pier and the boat. Burrrrrrr!

We've had very positive encounters with all the Customs folks we've met, both U.S. and Canadian. The only possible exception was our coming back to Canada this time. The officials were very dour and formal and searched the boat for over 20 minutes. We had sailed over and things had rearranged themselves down below as they tend to do. So when the opened the forward locker to inspect, there was a slight avalanche. The only comments they made on departure was to Karen "You sure do have a lot of shoes." Richard said nothing.

From Sidney we stopped in Mill Bay to watch the Regional Rowing Championships at Brentwood College. Our Canadian friends and boating companions (they have Ghost River - a Niagara 45) Nick, Ann, Liz and Chris (a.k.a. "salmonman" ) were all present as Liz rowed to both eight and four championship medals. It was a fabulous event made a bit more spicy by the water temp and the afternoon 1-2 foot wind waves. Mission Bay it was not.

After a brief overnight in Silva Bay (N 49 09.0, W 123 42.02) at the North end of the Gulf Islands we visited Jedediah Island. A unique property sold to the Province for about 5 cents on the dollar to remain a park and preserve in perpetuity. One of the best anchorages on the island is Deep Bay (N 49 30.3, W 124 12.87). Not really a bay at all but a 150 yard pie shaped cut out of steep granite walls. You pull in, plant your bow anchor somewhere near the center and back to the granite wall to thread your stern line through an iron ring. A bit like Catalina without the buoys and grass lines. Oh yes...and the sheep. When the property was turned over to the Province some ten years back they left the domestic animals. A horse, now thought to be very wild (we didn't see him) and a herd of (previously domestic) sheep. "Watch for rocks that move." We did see the rocks that move. Great spot. Definitely a recommended stop.

There are real advantages and some disadvantages to starting North early. Advantages: you're very much ahead of the season. Secluded anchorages are truly secluded. Marinas and marina supply places have that "glad to see you look" which means you are floating confirmation that the next season is beginning. Also, the bugs aren't up yet. Mosquitoes, black flies, and no-see-ums (the absolute worst...I'll show you the scars) aren't about yet. Disadvantages - the only really disadvantage is the weather. It can get (and has gotten) really nasty. Cold and high winds can change when you thought was going to be spring into a very blustery day in short order.

Our next stop was Powell River where we were entertained royally by good friends Dom & DI and Guy & Ruth. Both couples are sailors and enjoy camping in Mexico and farther South in the winter (what were we thinking?). Westview-Powell River is one of our favorite places to visit. We bucked across the Melaspina Strait, through the Seymour Narrows (at slack...one of those truly dangerous passages if not timed correctly) and into the imaginatively named "Small Inlet" (N 50 15.46, W 125 17.4) for a quiet night. Small Inlet is about ten miles North of the narrows and a perfect spot. Extremely well protected with good holding and terrific views. A bit tight getting in but you get used to that up here.

The trip up Discovery Passage and Johnstone Strait totaling 75 miles can be eventful. Gales are frequent in the spring and the currents in a number of places (like Race Passage across from Kelsey Bay) can reach 8.0-9.0 knots with attendant tide rips and whirlpools. We had great weather and timed the passage so it was just the a "boring" trip we wanted. We ended the western end of the transit with stops at Alert Bay, Sointula and are spending the weekend in Port Hardy just at the entrance to Queen Charlotte Sound, provisioning and getting ready to press North next week to Prince Rupert, BC.

Pictures are posted. Please click here for updated images.

All the very best - Richard & Karen