Sailing Vessel Chessie

Alaska July 2005 / Log Archive

7/29/05 Our arrival into Ketchikan, Alaska mid-afternoon on the 29th was on a flat calm and sunlit (!) sea, up the Revillagigedo Channel (wrap your tongue around that one...it helps if you try it with a Spanish accent...which he was), past Duke, Mary and Bold Islands and into the Tongass narrows.

There are several indications that give you a head's up you are approaching civilization. First... the density of small fishing skiffs, many in the 20 foot range filled with like-dressed fisherman (many yellow day use foul weather jackets), seated on (we suppose) comfortable, high-backed, theater-like chairs and buzzing by at high speed universally powered by dual large Honda outboards. There is a charter industry that serves the cruise ship trade. You walk off the cruise ship gangway, pop into your disposable foulies, walk down the commercial harbor gangway to your waiting skiff and twenty minutes later you're pulling in Coho or pinks. The guide has all the gear and will certainly bait the hook and arrange for your catch to be smoked, candied, shrink wrapped or canned. You can even design your own label for the can...and be back in time to buy an over-priced local T-shirt, "real" Alaskan gold jewelry or other native art treasures (some made in China). They tell me you never even have to touch the fish...what fun is that?

The second clue is the density of low flying float planes. The Tongass narrows is a busy shipping channel and a very busy landing site for float planes of all sizes.

Everyone - speaking of the locals and the other boaters we've met breaths a little easier when the cruise ship density is lower or zero. (Even the T-shirt sellers we think.) There are five monsters and one half monster here when we arrived and all are gone the next morning. To be replaced by more mid day. The cruise ships can bring as many as 25,000 visitors a day into this small community.

We berth at the local commercial marina, clear customs and then reconnoiter for the Laundromat, internet access, grocery store (which delivers :-) ), and ATM. All that civilization can offer. (When this adventure is over I am going to write a book ...about Laundromats.) The commercial marina is great- very accommodating. About 90% commercial fishing boats who are all extremely cordial and helpful. We have had to move a number of times (4) to accommodate the comings and goings of the seiners.

Everyone's custom clearing experience should be like ours. One phone call and five minutes later Officer Liddeg appears. A bunch of data, birth dates, boat registration, ports visited, etc. and then we talk fishing, the weather patterns, bears and where we're planning on visiting in our circuit of the Behm Canal and Misty Fiords National Monument. Officer Liddeg has lived here all his life, could not be more pleasant and enhances our (deepening) knowledge of salmon gathering and hiking opportunities on the south side of the Behm Canal.

We increase our knowledge of the tundra by visiting several of the local watering holes frequented by the commercial fisher guys. Two categories: the young, strong summer fisher help and the crusty, seasoned, wise, pool shark boat owner/Captains. All are universally interested in (big surprise) fishing and are universally extremely patriotic...pro U.S., pro Alaska and quick to tell you how the U.S. has been short changed in the ongoing fisheries negotiation with their Canadian neighbors. Very little (if any) respect for the bureaucrats "that know nothing about fishing determining the future of our industry."

Our trip up from Prince Rupert had us stopping at several great anchorages, Sommerville Bay and Granby Cove before heading into Alice Arm. Alice Arm still has several hanging glaciers the runoff from which turn the Arm into that glacier characteristic - very milky white water - I'm told that the white color is caused by granite sediment. The arm is spectacular with five to six thousand foot mountains on either side.

Stops on the way out and up to Ketchikan include Whiskey Bay, Manzanita Cove (I did not see any Manzanita), and Foggy Bay (I did see fog).

Foggy Bay, our last stop before heading up the Revillagigedo Channel, was interesting. Very narrow entrance with not great U.S. charts. We have been spoiled by the excellent quality, in both accuracy and depiction, of the Canadian charts. Throw in a wee bit of horizontal rain and we were glad to be in anchored with 10 boats of five nations: Dutch, Canadian, U.S., U.K. & (small Caribbean nation). We were just about the last boat in and with the great moist environment there wasn't any visiting. We awoke to a completely empty anchorage in the morning...all ten or eleven had very quietly stole away south...catching their tide...and headed to Canada.

Sunday morning we're moving further North through the Behm Canal and over the next week into the Misty Fiords National Monument.

Current posit: N 55 20.344, W 131 38.427.

7/12/05 In transit from Vancouver Island, BC to Prince Rupert, BC.

After you work your way across the bottom...lower southeast corner of the Queen Charlotte Sound...which is about 60 miles...you come upon Fitz Hugh Sound which signals the beginning of the Northern portion of the Inside Passage. Right to the right, in a cluster of small granite -faced islets covered entirely with tall cedars, is a small cove...Fury Cove - the very first secure anchorage refuge for boats heading north or south across the sometimes very rough bottom of the Queen Charlotte Sound. (Our transit following gale force winds during the previous 7 out of 10 days in the Sound was a cake walk.)

After entering a narrow deep gorge...about 150 feet of water...you come into an anchorage that is about 400 yards by 200 yards. Surrounded by tall cedars, islets with granite sides, a small 10 degree open spot that allows a view of the Fitz Hugh Sound just outside. This is an anchorage with a noted reputation for good holding in 45-60 feet of mud and sand in all conditions of weather. Also, on the two islets that are on the Sound side there are, incongruously, two sand beaches...like Southern California sand...something you rarely see up here. No bikinis in sight.

Last night when we poked our way in at about 6:30 midst the rain and gloom expecting to anchor in a quiet, stark and lonely anchorage. It was quiet and stark...lonely it was not. More like a Wal-Mart parking lot on Blue Light Special Day. We found 15 other boats had already sought overnight refuge here...from thirty to certainly over sixty feet. The old guy on the stern of the Krogan 48 who is anchored right by the channel entrance gives us a cheerful wave as we poke in through the gloom and starting looking for a Chessie-suitable spot. We find one right next...almost right next...to him in about 60 feet of water and 180 feet of chain.

No rain this a.m. but it has that great grey sky which means you could have rain all day long if you make just one misstep. We're thinking good thoughts.

We're off to Ocean Falls which is about 55 miles from here and then dropping back down the Cousins Inlet, through Gunboat Passage (great currents) and into Shearwater for fuel and a night alongside.

We're looking forward to seeing more whales...yesterday's count was five. Two right alongside including one humpback who surfaced, feeding ...mouth full open...about 100 feet on to port.

Fury Cove posit - N 51 29.213 W 127 45.360

Richard & Karen

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7/11/05 We left the Octopus Island just off the Okisollo channel on the 5th of July and ran the upper Okisollo Rapids as close to slack as we could. There was still a bit of eddy action and whirlpools on the western side. Karen drove and did a great job. Mother and Chessie doing well. We skirted the lower rapids, entered the Johnstone Strait and spent a night at the Blind Channel Resort. Blind Channel is run by a German Gentleman who has owned the place for almost thirty years. His wife who passed away about two years was responsible for some truly unique art and her style continues to dominate the property.
Great folks - many cruisers were holed up there due to weather - and a great German dinner.

We entered Johnstone Strait and with the current behind us through Race Passage were clocking about 12.8 over the ground. Kelsey Bay on the western shore is a (very) rough logging community with a Harbor created entirely by sunken barges and large old wooden sailing ships. Not a stop for the faint of heart (we've heard)...we didn't stop.

We pressed on to Port Neville and spent the night. Port Neville has a historic post office and store...and occupants. The post mistress in attendance has lived there her entire life...55 years and the Grand Daughter of the founder who settled there in the 1890's. We also saw our first black bear. Enormous...probably over seven feet and more than 1,000 pounds. He was foraging on the beach. Pics in the next pic dump...about a week.

We stopped at Alert Bay for a night. Lots of local artists and a few good local pubs..must check out all forms of Pacific Northwest wildlife.

We moved over to Port McNeil, where Mike and Gloria would grab their flight home after a two day visit to Victoria.

Underway early this a.m. for the transit through the Queen Charlotte Strait and bottom of the Queen Charlotte Sound. Very favorable winds for this time of year. The Sound has had gale force winds 40-45 knots 7 out of the last 10 days. Today a mill pond. Darn the bad luck.

We were about an hour out of Port McNeill when a 50 foot humpback surfaced about 50 feet on our port side. And stayed there ... very content to blow a bit and stay ...good news...on a parallel course. After a few minutes of escort duty he crossed our stern and sounded, showing us one of those great fluke shots.

Cape Caution is in sight and we'll anchor in Fury Cove tonight.

Current posit: N 51 04.336 W 127 42.765.
Richard & Karen

7/5/05 After a great two days in Prideaux Haven, Laura Cove ...postcard days...we elected to change our destination on the 3rd from Oyster Cove to the Toba Inlet. The wind had risen to about 20, there was a front moving in, and Toba Inlet has a hot tub that looks out over all the misty, rainy, foggy (but beautiful) Canadian landscape. The hot tube was marvelous...augmented by a reasonable margarita (or two).. the misty view improved markedly. We'll send pictures with the next CD drop to Dee...of Kemo (our lifeguard) and the hot tub.

There was even a dog, Kemo, who adopted us. Certainly part Husky, Kemo participated in every mooring and watched us carefully in the hot tub. The owner, a young man named Kyle from Powell River, said Kemo's most valuable role was not one of seamanship...tying the boats up... but keeping the bears off the property. They've had two persistent black bears this year at Toba but Kemo has warned them off. Kyle does a good job of keeping all locked up. The primary attraction for the bears is not the human garbage...which is a problem in some areas...like Powell River...but the blue and black berries that grow in enormous quantities by the flat spaces at the water's edge (just where the Toba Inlet Park and Hot Tub are).

We saw no bears. Good job, Kemo.

On the 4th of July we raised the large American flag and proceeded to the Octopus Islands via the Whiterock Passage. Very, very narrow. We had rocks about ten feet to port and perhaps a bit more to starboard. We had timed our passage through the Whiterock Passage, which is very narrow but free from currents, to get through the Beasley Passage (which is a rapids) at exactly slack water 4:36 PM. We were very close, about 7 minutes early...which was fine...but, clearly showed the remains of the large whirlpools and other rapid effects.You get a little slack up here but not much. No pun intended.

The evening of the Fourth was spent in the Octopus islands...which would have been a great spot save the rain. It was extremely picturesque but the rain kept us in after we anchored. We did see four of the largest eagles we have seen so far.

The next morning we're up and underway to make a 10:16 a.m. passage through the Okisollo Rapids (upper). These are another of the no-nonsense rapids on the inside passage. You go through at slack water or you don't go through. Consulting the tide table for this day you find that the maximum current through the upper rapids can reach close to 12 knots. We're right on the money...we transit the rapids narrowest point within a minute and half of slack water. We see and feel no current...but the lingering effects of tides lines and whirlpools are all around us.

We are currently holed up in the Mayne Passage, Blind Channel Marina waiting for a cold front to go through. This is the same front which has brought us great rain and wind for the past 2 days. Mike and Gloria got their 2 1/2 postcard days and then the front moved in. We should have frontal passage this evening and then a noticeable improvement in the weather. We had 28-33 knots about an hour ago ....Mike sez "howling dog" winds...and it is now down to 20-22.

We are tied up in a nice spot with a store, the ability to offload garbage (you pay by the pound...$.65/per) and do a little shopping for fresh stuff. They also have a great German restaurant here. We're on for 7:00 PM. Oh yes, and they had ice cream at the store...

We leave quite early in the morning...around 6:00..to take advantage (and not fight) the tide. I have been predicting that this front will move through and that weather will be o.k. for an early departure. We'll see how my weatherman ability is later in the day. We would be happy to see the sun again...doesn't have to be a postcard day...just a sunlight would be fine.

Next stops: Port Neville, Mamalilicula (where we will take the tour of the long house, totems, and other Indian historic sites), Alert Bay...then into Port McNeil on the morning of the 9th. Mike and Gloria debark and head home on the 10th.

Richard & Karen...Mike & Gloria

7/3/05 No place could be more inappropriately namely. The raw beauty of this part of the world is amazing. Even on the cloudy, rainy days it's hard to take your eyes off the skyline. Of course, Captain Cook who named the Sound ... and just about everything else up here ... saw this whole region's value as only one thing: a path across the southern artic back to Britain. The legendary and much sought after Northwest passage. He didn't find it and all the coves, inlet, reaches turned into blind ends. Even the most promising: the Jervis Inlet...hence, he named this region Desolation Sound.

Mike and Gloria Hardcastle-Taylor joined us in Campbell River on the 29th and we were underway for Gorge Harbour in the 30th. Gorge is a very secure little bay on the eastern end of Desolation Sound. You enter through a Gorge about 80 feet wide and while it's not one of the regions "rapids" it's good (as always up here) to be mindful of the state of both tide and current. We fueled, got organized, and ate at a great little restaurant with 4 tables...An Austrian maitre'd and a chef who could be cooking in LA. (We think he made the right career decision.)

With left Gorge Harbour on the ebb and went to pick up our prawn trap which we had dropped just at the end of the Sutil Channel the afternoon before. We were trying deeper areas. We've had some prawn success at 220-250 feet but the locals have all said go to 300-350..."that's where the big ones are...the three inchers"...so, have brought the trap up from 350 feet we find...:-( ....nothing. And it is exciting picking up your prawn trap in 20-22 knot winds.

We have been installed for the past two days in Laura Cove (N 50 08.753, W 124 40.106) which is just off the Homfray Channel. We got a good opportunity to sail for most of the 35 mile transit...winds 20-24 and right on the beam. Just the way Chessie like it's.

Laura Cove is a tight entrance into a pool that is about 100 feet deep in the middle and bounded by rock walls with a minimum depth of around 40 feet at high tide. For you sailors you anchor in about 60 feet with 200 feet of chain forward and then find the right cedar tree to bring you about 20 feet from the wall. Mike did the scampering into the woods thing this time with the stern line and we didn't embarrass our SWYC burgee. There are about seven boats in Laura Cove - it's one of the busier places in the Sound. This weekend, with Friday being Canada Day, marks the unofficial beginning of Summer. Yesterday we had monsoon rains (the boat needed a good wash) and today's a "postcard."

In the "wild kingdom" category we have otter neighbors. Seems like their home is right below Mike's cedar tree. They are extremely shy. The large one - Mom or Dad - comes out and thoroughly checks the neighborhood before she (or he) let's the pups come into the water. If they stray too far along the bank they get lectured. They're after the mussels that grow...by the thousands...along the bank. Karen got pics and they'll be in the next batch.

Our short term itinerary is Oyster Cove, the Rendezvous Islands (in the Calm Channel), the Octopus Islands, and the a transit through one of the regions famed "rapids" ...the Beasley Channel. Slack water or nothin'...it's a transit that begins at 10:16 a.m. on the 5th and needs to be finished in about 15 minutes. We then enter the Johnstone Strait after a night in Blind Channel and have three stops along the way (Port Harvey, Mamalilacula - one of the most historic Indian sites in the region- and Alert Bay) before Mike and Gloria take their leave in Port McNeil on the 10th of July.

From there it's North across the bottom of the Queen Charlotte Sound to the inside passage and on to Princess Rupert.

All the best - Richard and Karen